This is a common sealed ball bearing wheel end arrangement. Also notice the polished section to the left of the ring from the seal riding on the journal. This ring keeps the axle bearing on the axle shaft. The retainer ring is to the left of the ball bearing. Notice how the ball bearing traps the retainer plate on the axle shaft. This tool really makes this job simple and effortless. A couple of quick pulls and the shaft should be loose. The base of the puller slips over the wheel’s studs and the bolts secure the puller to the hub. I strongly recommend replacing the bearings at the same time because it’s a minimal investment to ensure good performance.Īttach the slide hammer tool to the axle shaft wheel hub. (Later, you’ll see how the bearing arrangement traps the plates on the axle shafts.) If you are going to re-use the bearings, the plates are also re-used. You can use pry bars to dislodge the axle shaft but be careful not to bend the plates. It’s a great tool to have in your shop, but runs about $150. Use a slide hammer tool, such as this one, to pop the axle shaft loose. Be careful because it may move around a little. It is still trapped on the axle shaft, but you need to make sure it is loose. Once the nuts have been removed, you can lightly pull the plate loose. The rectangular shaped steel plate under the nuts holds the axle shafts and bearings in the housing. If you want to remove all the rust and repaint the backing plates, the brake hardware needs to be removed. If you have fresh brakes and are going to retain the drum style, then it makes sense to leave the brakes attached to the backing plates. Keep in mind that removing the brake hardware prior to the axle shafts makes the job a little easier. (This backing plate has the brake shoes and hardware already removed.) You can leave the brake hardware in place or remove it. Once the nuts are loose, reach behind the flange to retrieve them. Notice that the brake hardware is in place. Use the correct-size deep-well socket or a shallow socket with an extension to reach in and loosen the four lock nuts nuts (a deep-well socket avoids the socket falling off the extension and having to fish the socket out from behind the axle flange). You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link:
9 INCH FORD REAR AXLE BEARINGS FREE
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9 INCH FORD REAR AXLE BEARINGS HOW TO
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, FORD DIFFERENTIALS: HOW TO REBUILD THE 8.8 AND 9 INCH. Four of these fasteners need to be removed so the axle shaft can be removed. Here you can see one of the nuts that retains the axle shaft. Please call us if you are unsure of suitability before purchasing.The access hole is in the wheel-mounting flange portion of the axle shaft and between two of the lug studs. To refund and/or replacement of goods back and forth to EMA.It is your responsibility as the buyer to ensure that the product(s) you are ordering from EMA is suitable and correct for yourĪpplication. Incidental damages.Any part(s) which, in our opinion, shows evidence of being used or installed contrary to manufacturer's instructions, and/or subjected to improper handling, packaging or shipping by the customer will not be eligible for exchange, refund or warrantyĪny purchases that the customer orders incorrectly will result in the customer paying all freight charges with regards EMA shall not be liable for any consequential or Purchase price or - at our option - repair or replacement of the part(s). In the event that we have incorrectlyĪdvertised an item, or there is an error in our listing, we will be more than happy to work with you to resolve any issues - but,Įngine Master Australia's liability for losses or damages, arising out of any cause whatsoever, is limited to a full refund of the We do our best to ensure that all our listings are correct, however we are only human. Notes: 1.562 inch bore, and 3.150 inch housing end application.